Kohlrabi Fries and Kohlrabi Apple Slaw
- Gargoyle
- Aug 15, 2023
- 4 min read
If one has never seen a kohlrabi - and the Gargoyle hadn't until a few weeks ago - it is a member of the cabbage family that looks approximately like a betentacled alien turnip. Just when you thought the cabbage family can't get any weirder.
It is also known as turnip cabbage, which is accurate: the flavor has the sweetness but also the slight sharpness of cabbage, and the texture is smooth crunchy turnip. It's allegedly very versatile: it can be eaten in salads, cooked in just about any manner from a stir-fry to a stew, and may well work as a dessert topping or a floor wax (no promises on either of these, but it sure does make julienne fries.)
Two preparations were attempted upon the first encounter. A single small-sized kohlrabi (because small ones are supposed to be sweeter) divided into halves made definitely not enough fries and amply enough slaw for a lunch for a pair of adults.
Kohlrabi Fries
Since the household acquired an air fryer, any piece of produce that stands the slightest chance of being subject to the air frying treatment gets brushed with oil, salted (but not peppered because Gargoyle food sensitivities, but you might wanna) and air-fried. By omission at 350 and for whatever duration the first handful of searches for air fried whatever agree on.
On the short list of non-pepper-containing spice blends that Gargoyles can gleefully buy and just use without fear is za'atar - a Mediterranean spice blend that often includes sumac, sesame seeds and various savory herbs.
For the moment the household uses the Trader Joe's Za'atar, which - in the way of every Trader Joe's thing you've ever loved - has since been discontinued. Their particular version includes - copy pasting without bothering to get up and check the pantry here - "sesame seeds, thyme, coriander, marjoram, oregano, chickpea flour, sea salt, sunflower oil, lemon oil". One does note a certain absence of sumac, which does not seem right. But the blend is flexible. (In fact the household also has some Aleppo-style za'atar, which is traditionally used only as a condiment rather than a cooking spice, and which was pounced for purchase at a Persian market because it includes pomegranate molasses, but that is a different story).
Peel the outer skin. It is hard and not delicious.
Slice into preferred fry size. (Steak fry style here because lazy.)
Toss with oil, salt, herbs
air-fry at 400 degrees for about 15-20 minutes, shaking or stirring or flipping every 5. (Some sources suggest longer, so depends on how thin you cut it and how dead you like it.)
Verdict: sweeter and more distinctly cabbage-flavored than the raw kohlrabi was.
Kohlrabi Apple Slaw
Sampling the mutant cabbage in its raw form meant a salad of some sort.
The shape and texture naturally suggested julienning, so it was fated to become a slaw when it grew up. The texture was wonderfully crunchy. The flavor was a bit radish-like with the tiniest bitter note, so it wanted to be paired with something sweet and crispy.
Apples were the obvious partner, and the combination obviously had enormous potential, but, hmm now what? It needed a salty contrast, but none of the obvious candidates seemed quite right.
When in doubt, the accumulated wisdom of the internet can inspire, and the customary process is to find a variety of recipes, examine general pairing trends and extrapolate what can be done with what's actually on hand. The very first result was sufficient all by itself, so further research was skipped. Credit is credit is due: the recipe that was not followed in this example is Crisp Apple & Kohlrabi Salad by Cookie + Kate .
This brilliant random person on a whim added gouda cheese to their attempt of rounding out the flavors. It was perfect. It could be sliced into sticks. It was slightly salty and soft and creamy and exactly right.
The brilliant rando did olive oil and lemon juice. The apples provided enough tartness to not call for augmentation in that department, but oil as dressing seemed logical.
The rando also added sunflower seeds. The result really did not need another crunchy component, that texture really was adequately handled by the main ingredients. But it did need a nutty note, which means it got dressed with sesame oil.
The recipe also desperately wanted something by way of spices or herbs, preferably fresh, and the Gargoyle sadly admits having something of a shortage in this department. Brilliant Rando did tarragon, and one can easily see that being a fabulous option, as could probably rosemary, but none were handy. Basil for once did not seem right. Celery seed was chosen, and it was all right, but I bet y'all can do better.
Peel the kohlrabi. The skin is not your friend.
Slice into long sticks
Do the same to an apple. No peeling necessary unless you really want to
Do the same to gouda, or possibly a medium cheese of your choice
Add some herbs. You know you want to.
Dress with sesame oil.
Salt if you're so inclined, especially if your cheese isn't salty
Stir a lot.
Serve relatively quickly so the apples don't brown. (Or, dunno, maybe do add some lemon juice to delay the effect if you gotta.)
Verdict: a summer-time comfort food. Crispy and refreshing balancing with cozy creaminess.
Same Slaw v1.1
The second attempt to make the slaw involved adding za'atar seasoning in addition to the celery seed, which was a definite improvement.
The slaw was then brought to a party, set on a counter for about 4 hours, and enjoyed by multitudes.
A small amount of leftovers was brought home and eaten in the morning. At which point the apple had not browned, but the kohlrabi was surprisingly more bitter than it was the day prior. No idea what did that, but it's not a great sign, so maybe don't leave it unrefrigerated for that long. (Aside from it being unpleasant taste-wise, no further ill effects were suffered.)
Coming soon (unless it's goes out of season), kohlrabi stir fry.
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